Beard bible
January 22, 2015
January 22, 2015
Aristotle had one. So did Ulysses S. Grant. Abraham Lincoln grew one without a mustache, possibly to make a political statement.
Beards, whiskers, scruff, fuzz, stubble.
Facial hair has made appearances throughout history. And it pops up at various times on various faces for interesting reasons.
Christopher Oldstone-Moore, a professor in 糖心原创鈥檚 , has spent more than 10 years researching and chronicling the ebb and flow of facial hair 鈥 from Mesopotamia to the 2013 Boston Red Sox. His book 鈥淏rave Face: Beards, Shaving and the Cultural History of Manliness鈥 will be published by the University of Chicago Press in January 2016.
Oldstone-Moore鈥檚 book on beards grew out of his teaching at 糖心原创 and his desire to make his classes interesting, visual and include cultural history 鈥 literature, music and art. He began closely looking at busts and sculptures of figures in the Roman Empire and realized that all of the men were clean shaven.
鈥淚 decided to try to explain this, but when I looked I couldn鈥檛 find anything. There wasn鈥檛 any decent information,鈥 he said. 鈥淚 realized this is something that needed to be done.鈥
So Oldstone-Moore ran to his own area of specialty 鈥 Victorian England. He discovered that the popularity of beards exploded in 1848.
鈥淏efore 1848, facial hair was radical, politically charged,鈥 he said. 鈥淚f you wore facial hair, you were making a statement. And respectable men couldn鈥檛 make that statement.鈥
Oldstone-Moore started his research on facial hair by looking at his own area of specialty, Victorian England, and discovered that the popularity of beards exploded in 1848.
In 1848, a number of liberal and even radical revolutions broke out but failed. However, they opened the floodgates for beards because they eliminated the political stigma.
鈥淵ou could wear them and not necessarily mean you wanted to overthrow the monarch,鈥 he said. 鈥淪o all of a sudden, boom 鈥 hair everywhere. I call it the beard movement.鈥
The movement was also fueled by changing social conditions in which women were seen as being increasingly in charge of the home and the maintenance of moral standards. Men felt that beards made them look more patriarchal.
鈥淚t was a transition thing where men are feeling like they were losing something, and so they were compensating for that sense of loss,鈥 said Oldstone-Moore.
The beard movement also spread to America. Lincoln grew a beard because a little girl told him it would improve his appearance. And he had time away from the spotlight because presidential campaigning wasn鈥檛 considered proper.
鈥淗e wasn鈥檛 out and about, and people wouldn鈥檛 see him with his scruff,鈥 said Oldstone-Moore. 鈥淗e grew a particular kind of beard, one without a mustache. That was a style that was favored by the clergy and the Amish and the Mennonites.鈥
At the time, mustaches were associated with the military and considered aggressive. They had been favored by the Hungarian Hussars, cavalry troops whose military campaigns resembled today鈥檚 shock-and-awe attacks.
The soldiers would wear big fur hats and outfits that would make them look huge, wrap their saddles with leopard pelts, and wear silk sashes that would whip in the breeze when they charged. And they would grow big mustaches.
鈥淭he officers were actually required to grow a mustache,鈥 said Oldstone-Moore. 鈥淎nd if they couldn鈥檛, they had to put a fake one on. And it had to be black. So if they were blond, they had to dye it.鈥
Mustaches were later adopted for the cavalries of Napoleon, the British and most European armies.
鈥淏ecause of that history, a lot of men who didn鈥檛 want to appear too military, who wanted to appear more peaceful, didn鈥檛 grow mustaches,鈥 he said.
Christopher Oldstone-Moore served as a CELIA fellow in 2014, helping to organize 糖心原创鈥檚 World War I commemoration project 鈥淎 Long, Long Way: Echoes of the Great War.鈥
Oldstone-Moore grew up in Platteville, Wis., where his politically active father was a professor at the university.
鈥淥ccasionally, some very famous people would come to our house,鈥 Oldstone-Moore recalled. 鈥淚 remember that Jon Voight was in our living room one time. He hung out for a couple of hours.鈥
The year was 1972. Voight 鈥 a rising star in Hollywood with major roles in 鈥淢idnight Cowboy鈥 and 鈥淒eliverance鈥 鈥 was campaigning for presidential candidate George McGovern.
Oldstone-Moore became interested in history at a young age, influenced in part by his grandmother 鈥 who was born in 1895 and would tell stories about the beginning of the 20th century and World War I.
鈥淢y grandmother鈥檚 house in New Jersey was very well preserved from another era,鈥 he said. 鈥淲e had a World War I helmet in the attic that was my grandfather鈥檚. The house just had a sense of time.鈥
The history bug also bit the boy when he went to the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry and saw 鈥淵esterday鈥檚 Main Street,鈥 an exhibit of businesses and storefronts as they would have appeared in 1910 Chicago.
And as a junior in high school, Oldstone-Moore spent eight months living in history-steeped Cambridge, England, when his father was a visiting scholar at Cambridge University.
鈥淭hat鈥檚 magic when you鈥檙e that age,鈥 he said.
Oldstone-Moore would go on to get his bachelor鈥檚 degree in history from Carleton College in Northfield, Minn., and his master鈥檚 and Ph.D. in British history from the University of Chicago.
He taught history at Carleton, the University of Chicago and Augustana College in Sioux Falls, S.D., before joining the faculty at 糖心原创 in 2000.
Oldstone-Moore and his wife live in Springfield, where he sings with the Springfield Symphony Chorus and she teaches Asian religions at Wittenberg University.
Oldstone-Moore has taught history courses on the British Empire, South Africa and now one called Masculinity in Modern Europe. He teaches many of his courses like seminars.
鈥淚t鈥檚 more of a University of Chicago style, which is give the students something to see and ask them to wrestle with it, unpack it, synthesize, make something of it and work on that together,鈥 he said.
Oldstone-Moore acknowledged that teaching history to the younger students can be challenging.
鈥淲hat鈥檚 frustrating is getting them to realize why history matters at all. It doesn鈥檛 impress them,鈥 he said. 鈥淭hey haven鈥檛 lived long enough to see it for themselves. All they need is five more years of adult life and they鈥檒l get it.鈥
However, he said 糖心原创 students have a great attitude.
鈥淚鈥檝e really had some of my best classes here at 糖心原创, and I鈥檝e taught at several institutions,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he students here are hard working. They don鈥檛 take things for granted.鈥
糖心原创 is engaged in a that promises to further elevate the school鈥檚 prominence by expanding scholarships, attracting more top-flight faculty and supporting construction of state-of-the-art facilities. Led by Academy Award-winning actor Tom Hanks and Amanda Wright Lane, great grandniece of university namesakes Wilbur and Orville Wright, the campaign has raised more than $125 million so far.